The Egadi
Favignana, Levanzo, Marettimo, are islands around Sicily perhaps less known to tourists, and forthis reason good placet for those who do not love mass tourism. This archipelago, already inhabited in prehistoric times - when it was still attached to the mainland-though it has never been the theatre of important historical events (except for a naval battle which took place in the stretch of sea dividing Favignana and Levanzo, between the Romans and the Carthaginians ), has always attracted the attention of sailors in the Mediterranean, especially that of pirates, who regularly stopped here to get water. The first true appearance of these islands in history dates from the fifteenth century, when they were transformed into a "barony of the tuna fish" and assigned to Giovanni de Karissima. It was thanks to tuna fishing that the three islands, and especially Favignana, in the space of a few decades reached great prosperity, shared by everyone, from the last fisherman to the entrepreneurs. The latter were first Ligurians - who acquired the archipelago in the seventeenth century - and then the Florios, a powerful Palermo family, whose mansion, built by architect Damiani Almeyda, can still be admired on Favignana. Thanks to the Florios, the "mattanza" (slaughter), processing and preservation of the tuna fish was given a new lease of life. Still today this activity is a vital one in the economy of the islands. Favignana, the biggest of the three islands, is also the one with the best accomodation facilities. The little village, all gathered around the harbour, still has some buildings of the Florios and some small Baroque churches. Its name is indissolubly linked to the tuna fish. Here, indeed, there is the biggest tuna processing station in the Mediterranean, which, decisive for the island's economy for centuries, is once again picking up now. You can easily get anywhere on the island on a bicycle, as it is rather flat. It is largely tufa rock, which has been used since time immemorial in building. Along the paths there open up deep quarries, partly hewn out by man, and partly caused by sinking of friable rock; they are surrounded and covered by low bushes. The coasts, rich in crannies, little bays and grottoes, are bathed by a clear turquoise sea with splendid reflections. Levanzo is known above all for the Geneans grotto, which conserves decorations and graffiti considered the most interesting in Italy. On the walls the accurate hand of an unknown artist of 10,000-15,000 years ago traced out men, women and children, animals and fish, thus handing down to us an unknown ancient world. One should also not miss the natural beauties of the island, which has nothing to envy her sisters. Marettimo, the furthest from the Sicilian coast, is perhaps for this very reason the most unspoilt, but also the most different. Mountainous, unlike the other two, it hides in the bowels of its caves freshwater springs, and it is covered with incredibly luxuriant spontaneous vegetation, partly consisting of very rare or even unique plants. In the tiny white village the only accomodation is at the homes of fishermen, from whom one can hire a boat to go round the island, which is absolutely the most interesting excursion (this also goes for the other islands), since it makes it easy to discover the most inaccessible beauties of the coast, above all the grottoes. Among the latter, particular mention must be made of the Cammello (camel), Bombarda and Presepe (crib) grottoes, with stupendous and unrivalled colours.