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Unfortunately, when I start to think to this site, the Tipple was already finished and I can't start to take pictures of construction steps. Here I try to suggest a sequence to follow for scratch building this very complicated frame structure as well some tips about "not usual" tools and " techniques " I found effective in my experience.
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First of all : documents.
Put toghether any picture you can find in the Net, on books and magazines ( print on your printer or make photocopies and collect it in a binder : this can preserve your heart from collapse when you glue accidentally two pictures or just when wind spread all around any paper you have )
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As second : have scale drawings.
If you can't find a drawing already done ( as me ) try to make your own from pictures. Select front and side pictures and using one know detail as window/door or a man in the picture to set the main dimensions. Have "working" copies of the drawing too to "destroy" without panic.
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Select materials ( available commercial castings for windows, etc. and walls and roof ) : having clear in mind what you can use set also the next step : prepare some jigs for repetitive parts ( remember that is very difficult to re-make left and right sides exactly without any fixed jig, specially if is a frame structure )
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I've made the walls gluing strips of wood on a cardstock base
(see a picture down here).
This is a terrific tedious way to replicate the real world but can have fantastic results : you choise.
Remember: any detail is related to the scale you work and to your "rivet counting feeling" . |
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Suggested sequence for the tipple is: first do the engine house - prepare the left and right side frames ( use a jig !) - then the front frames - prepare the internal walls for coal - cover the back wall and proceed with the back frames - after all put all details (lamps-pipes- buckets ,etc)
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Prepare a base for your diorama: I use two balsa pieces glued in the middle because I have to carve it for the coal charging hole under the rails. |
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I've used a brass etched grill to cover the coal hole.
An unsolved problem was to replicate the old fashion lamp: at the moment I can't find a way to have a working light ( maybe use of fibre optic can help to fix this ) |
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Stairs at base and a little chain on the coal lift to complete the Tipple |
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The Sand House : here is how I prepare the walls.
In this case all strips are glued at the same level, but in the tipple house I need to overlap any strip ( more or less 1/3 of the bottom strip is covered by the top one). Remember: never glue windows and door before paint it. |
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Sand House roof : I cover the roof with a thin wood sheet and, using a brass sheet ( I've found in electronics shop ) I cut in strips. I use this also for the tipple roof.
For the house I've bunched the rivets on the back side using .... a little wheel I've found in an old ink-jet printer used to guide the paper ( Italian imagination !!! )
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See to this side photo for this "special" tool. |
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Sand bunker was preliminary filled with white plaster shaped as sand. Next step will be to cover with some real sand ( must be very fine ).
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Sand tower was prepared using a jig for the two sides.
And then glue the front braches . |
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This way alignment is simple |
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Ruler in centimetres give an idea of the size |
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I select the N scale also because I prefer the "overall sensation" that a model can give you and in this case a "good enough" detail level is depending on your patience and your feeling. |
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Waiting for final details :
Sand bucket on tower, piping for sand ... |
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The sand buck was made using a short wood covered with the "usual" brass sheet.
Rivets are made with the "usual" wheel tool. |
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Electrical brass wire is used to simulate piping glued with CA. |
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Sand is .... real sand taken from the beach. |
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A cover of paint is covering any defect, taking in account that in "N" scale a building is viewed from a "flying bird" point of view.
Some whethering emulate rust. Try this: take that pen alchool colors used for little fixing on wood ( any house color shop have it) , give some color ... better more. Then deep a clean brush on pure alcool and diluite the surface of your model working from top to bottom. Rust is growing on metals on the rain-exposed surfaces, and rain falls from .....
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Ohps! I forget to have a place for the Water Tower too.
... no problem: I've buy some additional estate using more balsa .
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